Zdrilica Beach (Pakleni, Hvar) — the quiet cove next to Stipanska

Zdrilica is proof that the Pakleni have two opposite souls 5 minutes’ walk apart. While on the south side of Marinkovac, at Stipanska, Carpe Diem’s electronic music is pumping, to the north — across a very narrow isthmus — lies Zdrilica: a silent cove with shallow water, pines down to the shore and a small family restaurant that has been serving grilled fish for decades.

This guide is for those who want the Pakleni without giving up peace and quiet. I explain exactly what the cove is like, what the restaurant offers, how to get there from Hvar (and from Stipanska, the trick that changes the experience), and why it’s the best option in the archipelago if you have children or want snorkelling without the noise.

Zdrilica Beach at a glance

Location	North side of Marinkovac Island (Pakleni archipelago), opposite Hvar harbour
Distance from Hvar	~2 km · 15-20 min by water taxi
Water taxi price (one way)	8-12 € per person
Distance to Stipanska	5 min walk across the isthmus
Seabed	Fine pebbles and shingle (water shoes recommended)
Depth	Shallow for the first 20-30 m (suitable for children)
Facilities	Family restaurant (grilled fish), drinks bar, sunbed hire
Best time	June-September (not overcrowded even in August)
Good for	Families with children, quiet snorkelling, a rest between parties

What Zdrilica Beach is like

Zdrilica isn’t a single beach but a group of small adjoining coves on the north side of Marinkovac, all linked by a coastal path. The main one is a long bay with a jetty, restaurant and sunbed area; around it are another 3 or 4 smaller coves you can reach on foot in 5-10 minutes.

The seabed is fine pebbles, more comfortable than at Stipanska, and the water stays shallow for the first 20-30 metres. That, plus the bay’s natural shelter (no waves, no strong winds as a rule), makes it the most peaceful option for families with children of any age.

What surprises people most when they arrive is the silence. Even though Stipanska is a 5-minute walk away with Carpe Diem’s music playing, at Zdrilica all you hear is cicadas and splashing. The island’s geography — a pine-covered hill in the middle — blocks the sound completely.

Zdrilica’s restaurant

There’s a single family restaurant on the main bay, open from June to the end of September. The menu is classic Dalmatian: grilled fish (gilthead bream, sea bass, squid), seafood of the day, salads with local olive oil and island wine. Prices are reasonable compared with the nearby beach clubs: 20-40 € per person for a full meal with wine.

It’s not a fine-dining restaurant and it has no Michelin star. It’s what many people look for on a Mediterranean island: honest food, sea views, no pretensions. They also rent sunbeds (10-15 € a day), often included if you eat at the restaurant.

In July and August it’s worth booking a table the day before, especially for groups of more than 4 people.

How to get to Zdrilica from Hvar

1. Direct water taxi from Hvar harbour

The water taxis leave from the main quay between 9:00 and 19:00 (later in July and August). The trip to Zdrilica is a little longer than to Stipanska because you have to go round the north of the island: about 15-20 minutes by boat y 8-12 € per person.

Not all water taxis go directly to Zdrilica: some only stop at Stipanska and expect you to cross the isthmus on foot. Ask at the harbour when you board.

2. Get off at Stipanska and walk across

The trick used by most people who know the Pakleni. You’re dropped at the Stipanska jetty (more water taxis, more timetable options), you cross the 5-minute isthmus on foot and arrive at Zdrilica. You avoid the less frequent timetables and keep the option of going back to Stipanska for sunset.

Recommended footwear: sturdy flip-flops or sandals. The path is dirt and rock, climbs slightly and drops down the other side.

3. Licence-free boat hire

A Pasara 5HP licence-free one can be hired for 80-150 € a day. If you’re a group of 3-5 people it’s good value and lets you combine Zdrilica with Stipanska, Mlini, Vinogradišće and Palmižana without relying on timetables.

The trick: combine Zdrilica + Stipanska in one day

It’s the perfect Pakleni combination and hardly anyone gets it right. The formula I recommend after so many years organising trips to Hvar:

1. 10:00-11:00: water taxi to Stipanska or direct to Zdrilica.
2. 11:00-14:00: a peaceful morning at Zdrilica — swimming, snorkelling, a leisurely lunch at the family restaurant.
3. 14:00-15:00: a nap or a stroll around the small neighbouring coves.
4. 15:00-15:10: cross the isthmus on foot to Stipanska, 5 minutes.
5. 15:30-19:00: afternoon at Stipanska with Carpe Diem, sunset, cocktails and DJs.
6. 19:30: water taxi back to Hvar.

That way you make the most of both extremes of the archipelago without overdoing the partying or getting bored of the calm. People who only go to Stipanska miss the best part; those who only go to Zdrilica miss the atmosphere.

Best time to visit Zdrilica

June and September are my favourite months: water at 22-24 °C, hardly anyone around, and a table at the restaurant without booking. That’s when Zdrilica feels like a secret.

July and August is still quiet compared with other beaches in the archipelago, but the restaurant can fill up at peak times (13:30-15:00). Water at 24-26 °C.

May and October are possible if you don’t mind water at 18-20 °C. The restaurant may have reduced opening hours.

From November to April, the restaurant closes and the water taxis run much less often. Not recommended.

Snorkelling and activities

Zdrilica is one of the best places in the archipelago for peaceful snorkelling. The rocky areas at either end of the bay attract lots of small fish (white bream, young gilthead bream, salema) and visibility reaches 10-15 metres on windless days.

For experienced swimmers, it’s worth heading to the small neighbouring coves (Vlaka, little Marinkovac) along the coast with fins — unspoilt gems you can only reach on foot or by swimming.

What to bring to Zdrilica

• Water shoes or water sandals for getting in comfortably (fine pebbles)
• Sun cream and a cap
• Your own snorkel if you have one — well worth it
• Sturdy footwear (soled flip-flops) for crossing the isthmus to Stipanska
• Towel and a change of clothes
• Cash in euros and a card — the restaurant usually accepts both
• Water and snacks if you have children with you
• A hat, a book and time: Zdrilica is for taking it slow

Zdrilica vs other Pakleni beaches

• Zdrilica vs Stipanska: same island, opposite sides. Stipanska is partying; Zdrilica is calm. Combine them with a 5-min walk.
• Zdrilica vs Mlini: both are good for families, but Mlini is closer to Hvar and has more services (more frequent water taxis). Zdrilica is quieter and has a better restaurant.
• Zdrilica vs Palmižana: Palmižana is fine dining (Toto’s, Meneghello), more elegant and pricier. Zdrilica is simple, more authentic food.
• Zdrilica vs Jerolim: Jerolim is nudist and closer to Hvar. Zdrilica is for clothed family swimming.

Zdrilica FAQ

Is Zdrilica good for children?

Yes, it’s probably the best family option in the Pakleni archipelago along with Mlini. Shallow water, no waves, no loud music, a family restaurant with simple food. Access from the water taxi is direct and easy.

Is there shade at Zdrilica?

Yes, the pines come almost down to the water and provide natural shade over much of the bay. You can also hire sunbeds with umbrellas (10-15 € a day).

Can you walk to Zdrilica from Stipanska?

Yes. It’s the famous Pakleni trick: 5 minutes’ walk across the isthmus separating the south and north sides of Marinkovac. A dirt and rock path, perfectly fine in sandals or sturdy flip-flops.

Is there nudism at Zdrilica?

Not usually. It’s a family beach where swimwear is the norm. If you’re looking for nudism in the Pakleni, the traditional option is Jerolim.

Until what time does the return water taxi run?

The last water taxi back from Zdrilica usually leaves around 19:00-20:00 in high season, earlier in May and October. If you want to stay late, cross over to Stipanska, where Carpe Diem shuttles run until 02:00.

What can I bring to eat if I don’t want the restaurant?

You can bring your own picnic no problem. There’s no supermarket on the island, so buy everything in Hvar before you set off. There’s a small bar selling drinks, ice creams and sandwiches for emergencies.

How much does the restaurant at Zdrilica cost?

A full meal with fresh fish, salad and wine costs between 20 and 40 € per person. That’s a good deal more reasonable than the restaurants in Palmižana or Carpe Diem’s prices.

Are there showers and toilets at Zdrilica?

Yes, the restaurant has toilets and an outdoor shower, free for customers and, in practice, for anyone who turns up.

Is Zdrilica worth visiting?

If you’re looking for the Pakleni without giving up peace and quiet, Zdrilica is the answer. It’s the perfect balance of authentic beach, family restaurant and proximity to Hvar. For families with children, couples wanting lunch with a view, or anyone wanting to avoid the crowds at Palmižana and the noise at Stipanska, it’s the smartest choice in the archipelago.

The natural combination is: morning at Zdrilica, afternoon at Stipanska for the sunset. Crossing the 5-minute isthmus is one of those little Adriatic secrets only people who’ve spent time in the area know.

For the full picture of the archipelago, I recommend reading the general guide to the Pakleni Islands from Hvar.

Book your day in the Pakleni Islands

• Pasara 5HP boat hire in Hvar — licence-free, up to 5 people. Gives you the freedom to combine Zdrilica, Stipanska, Mlini and Palmižana on the same day.
• Blue Cave and 5 Islands tour from Hvar — a full day combining the Pakleni with the Blue Cave, Stiniva and Komiža.

Personal support via WhatsApp, payment by PayPal/card, free cancellation up to 24 hours before with a 100% refund. Message us at +34 600 988 287 if you need advice.

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